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Telling you whether a restoration is easy or hard is quite difficult. If you take your time, do each job step by step, then a restoration can be rewarding and fairly simple. How ever, and here is the debating point, to "restore" a scooter correctly takes time, patience and know how. To get the exact details correct can be very tricky. You can of course rebuild a Lambretta to your own and personal specification, and thus the attention to detail is probably not as important.
Correct routing of the contols, cables, wiring loom, etc is probably the most important factor when rebuilding your Lambretta, get this wrong and your scooter will not be nice to ride. Of course it goes without saying, a good reliable engine is also the key to enjoying your Lambretta
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The restoration topic is huge and wide, I have
often thought of making a page covering the
restoration of a scooter. The biggest problem
is the difference between models; many people
have many different views on how this should
be done. There are only a handful of experts
around the world that can build factory authentic
restored Lambrettas, many of us think we can,
but believe me I we can't. That is not to say
we cannot build or have built for us a close
enough example to not even worry about the small
imperfections or mistakes. In time I may well
try to build up this page into its own mini
site and guide of how to restore a Lambretta,
but until then you will have to make do with
a brief outline of what order you should carry
out your rebuild. Please note that the engine
does have its own page, a complete build of
an engine, the rest will follow as and when
time allows.
With this list we would presume you have built
your engine, forks, and wheels as a separate
unit ready to install. Through the technical
help pages we have come to the conclusion that
you should not throw any thing away at all until
you have repaired, re furbished or replaced
the part. The use of the parts catalogues currently
available is also in valuable when rebuilding
your Lambretta
I would like to add that there are may many
helps and tricks when rebuilding your scooter,
I hope with time to build this article up, until
then take extreme care, time and patience, if
in doubt ask, don't bodge, the end result will
be more worth while. I would also like to add
as a final foot note even though we have not
began! I work in a scooter shop, bay far the
most popular request we get is to finish off
restoration rebuilds. PLEASE take your time,
ask before if you are not sure, it will cost
you a hell of a lot more if your local dealer
has to undo your wrong doings, to correct your
scooter. This is harsh on most people, but take
your time, make sure you enjoy rebuilding your
scooter; as if you don't the end result will
never be what you want it to be.
1. Fit the bearing tracks and protection covers
on the top and bottom of the fork tube, including
the chrome headset support ring if your model
has one.
2. Fit the stand and splash plate assembly on
to the frame, this allows the frame work to
be stood up while fitting up occurs
3. Loosely position cables on frame, if needed
affix roughly in position with plastic cable
ties which can be cut off later.
4. Do the same with the wiring loom on frame.
5. Fit the rear light unit
6. Fit the rear frame badge and holder or grille
dependant on your model
7. Fit the rear mudguard
8 Fit the seat or seats, including the catch.
The seat does not have to have the cover on
at this stage, but if you do fit it, try to
cover it for protection
9. Build and install glove box door with buffers
10. Fit the rubber to the glove box, and then
install the glove box
11. Fit the fuel tank, with all rubbers and
straps, fit the fuel lever and frame grommet.
12. Fit the air box and air scoop
13. Install forks and front wheel assembly
14. Install rear brake switch and connect up
15. Install horn and connect up
16. Fit the engine unit complete with rear hub
and wheel.
17. Put on the leg shields loose ready for alignment;
do not use any fixings at this stage.
18. Fit the headset base in position.
19. You now need to roughly fit in position
the leg shields and rear running boards to make
sure you have correct alignment of every thing.
This includes the headset and leg shields not
touching, and equal gaps between the leg shields
and rear floor boards. At this stage you can
still make any adjustments needed. Do not affix
tightly at this stage.
20. This is a debatable stage! Some people would
not agree with me and carry on building the
scooter in any case, here is what I do and why.
Firstly I always like to take off all the body
work now that I am happy it aligns nicely. The
reason this is done is so that you can then
cable and wire every thing up. You can run and
check the scooter for correct adjustments and
running of the engine, lights, petrol, ignition,
and every aspect of your scooters running operation.
The reason I take the body work up is to set
the cables and wiring loom up for both correct
operation and correct fitting. When you are
happy every thing is all OK, you can now apply
the correct alloy ties in the correct positions
to secure all cables and wiring looms, remembering
to cut off the temporary plastic ties you used.
21. Correctly fit the leg shields, using the
rubber buffers the shields have underneath them,
all alloy channels and rubber trims etc.
22. Build the horn casting and front mudguard
as one unit; don't forget the horn cast base
unit.
23. Fit the horn casting/mudguard as one unit,
if you need help keeping the rubber gaskets
in position, a small dab of grease will help.
Tighten these up while positioning the rubbers
for correct and equal fitting.
24. All you have left to do now is to fit the
rear floorboards back on, fit the side panels.
25 Finally after you have re checked every thing,
you can apply the badges and appropriate warning
transfers where needed. Wash the scooter down
with a mild car shampoo, and admire your hard
work. It should be noted that on fresh new paint work
the use of polish is not recommended for at
least a few weeks until the paint has cured
properly, but please consult your paint shop
for further instructions.
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